Sunday, 18 March 2012

Well everything got turned arse up at the start of the year, my shed got trashed during the gales we had in January and the bike got trashed as well, Good news is that a new shed/workshop is in place and I will be restarting the build on the bike as soon as poss

Tuesday, 26 April 2011

Not too late for an update

Well. i finaly got around to doing a basic mock up to see how my idea's look, Im thinking that the CX500 tank needs to be elongated by about 2 inches and i need to figure out how to save the rear of the frame.

Tuesday, 7 December 2010

Fiberglass Cafe seat


Things You'll Need:

Tape measure


Electric saw

Floral foam

Contact adhesive spray

Serrated knife

Electric sander

Sandpaper in varying grits

Compressed air

Aluminum tape

Automotive wax

Fiberglass cloth and resin


Paint brushes


Putty knife

Angle grinder

Body filler

Soap and water

Filler primer


Create the Seat Form


Take measurements of your seat rails and tail portion of the motorcycle's frame, using a tape measure. Measure the width of seat rails at the base of the fuel tank and at the end of the tail.


Cut a piece of plywood to size, according to your measurements, using an electric saw. This board will serve as the foundation for the seat's pan. Cut the plywood so that it extends over the seat rails by at least 1/4 of an inch to allow for seat hinges and other mounting hardware.


Glue several blocks of green floral foam to the end of the plywood seat pan, using contact adhesive. The foam will be shaped into the seat's rear "hump". Use as many blocks of foam as needed to create a minimum height and length of 10 inches. The entire foam structure must be as wide as the plywood seat pan.


Shape the foam into a rough version of your intended design, using a serrated knife. Make your cuts as symmetrical as possible to avoid making extra work for yourself.


Fine-tune your seat hump, using an electric sander fitted with medium grip sandpaper. Use light pressure on the sander to smooth the foam's surface.


Clear away any sanding dust from the seat form, using compressed air. Cover the entire seat with aluminum tape then spread a thick coat of high-quality automotive wax over the tape.

Molding the Seat


Prepare your materials. Cut your fiberglass cloth into smaller strips and pieces that match the shape of your seat, using a sharp pair of scissors. Cut enough fabric to create minimum of four identical layers and set the cut pieces in separate piles. Mix your fiberglass resin according to the manufacturer's directions. Pour a small amount of acetone into a separate containers and place your paint brushes in it.


Coat the entire surface of the seat with fiberglass resin, using a paint brush. Immediately place your first layer of your fiberglass cloth over the resin. Coat the fiberglass cloth layer with fresh resin, applied in a dabbing motion with the tip of your paintbrush.


Continue to place successive layers of fiberglass cloth, followed by resin, until you have at least four separate layers built up on the seat form. Dip your paint brush in the acetone-filled container to prevent the brush's bristles from hardening between coats.


Smooth out any raised areas and air bubbles, using a putty knife. Allow the fiberglass resin to cure for at least 24 hours. Pull the fiberglass seat off of the seat form after the fiberglass has cured completely.

Finishing the Seat


Trim away any excess fiberglass material from the seat, using an angle grinder.


Smooth the surface of the fiberglass seat, using an electric sander fitted with 80-grit sandpaper, followed by 300-grit sandpaper. Fill in any low areas in the seat, using an automotive body filler. Allow the filler to cure for at least 30 minutes, then smooth with 300-grit sandpaper.


Clean off the surface of the fiberglass seat, using soap and water. Allow the seat to air dry completely.


Coat the entire seat with a filler primer then paint it to your desired color scheme.

Monday, 29 November 2010

Tank logo

Seeing as im thinking along the lines of the older Brit bikes, then a sutible logo for the tank is needed.
I wanted something resembling the Norton logo so did a search to see what i could find,

As you can see, its quite crisp and neat as logo's go. next was to find something of that style but saying Honda.

Similar, but just not right for my build. no disrespect to the guy who took the time to do this stencil, I thought i could do a little better and neater so had a go on photoshop myself and this is what i came up with
Im not too happy with the "O", its not a standard type face, so, looks like its back to photoshop to try and change it sits..all in all tho, im happy with it and its probably gonna be a goer.

how it all started

Ive been pondering for an age just what to do with the little 250 bike i have lying around the back garden.
1st of i was going to try my hand at turning it into a hardtail bobber, then i came across a website called "do the ton", and i was quite gobsmacked at some of the replica cafe racers those guy created, needless to say, it got my imagination going and here i am at the stage of planning my build.
Here are some pic's of what i have to work with.

Sunday, 28 November 2010

Welcome to my cafe racer build blog

O.K. so, here is where it all starts and hopefully through the winter months i'll be able to update with text and pictures how my cafe racer is coming along.